Eric I hate to say it there is no real simple answer to that one. So many variables and you will find tons of info on the web doing a google search. Did you have esp on or off? auto or stick ? road conditions? Is this car new to you or have you had it a while ? what do you mean by get up and go ? did it get worse or is it better ?

I took this from another source it helps us to understand wheel hop.

Based on my experience / understanding here is what is happening as far as wheel hp in steps.

1.) As power is applied, the wheels are getting traction and so energy is transfered up the system through the drive train. This action tries to lift the front of the car off the ground and flip it over onto it's roof. and or push the car forward but there are point that give along the way and so it cant.

2.) There is not enough rigidity to transfer enough energy to lift the front of the car and so instead the rear wheels and axil twist up under the car instead compressing the springs, shocks, bushings and anything else that will compress.

3.) Eventually the force becomes sufficient to break traction and wheels spin allowing the springs, axel, shocks and such to 'unload' and slam back into place. This unloading movement also pushes the back of the car into the air slightly and allows the wheels to spin completely freely. Gravity then pulls the car back down tightly and the tires catch traction and the entire process repeats, usually with even more force.

There are a lot of things that all get thrown into the mix and will all contribute to reducing wheel hop. Any elasticity that can be removed will help. Bushings, Motor mounts, springs, shocks, and so on. Stiffening the body itself aids as well. Also some compromise is needed to displace energy. Taller side-walls will help. It's the loading and releasing of stored energy that causes the issue. For example if the tires would simply spin the problem goes away. True you slow down but you don't get wheel hop. The same is true for slipping the clutch and linearly increasing fuel. To some extent you need to lear to drive around the issue avoiding using the clutch like a switch. Still very fast, but sumoothly. Search out and listen to Ronnie Sox videos.. The slippage is why the auto's don't exhibit the issue, the torque converter is designed to slip in doing so helps prevent the problem. Combine controlled wheel slippage and clutch slippage and that's how a rail makes it down the strip without flipping over.

You could also reduce torque so the engine would 'bog' down. ESP does that to some extent. While all that helps IMHO the single most important ting I've found is to add preloading the system. You can do this yourself to some degree with line-lock's or a combination of clutch, throttle, and breaking, but there are a number of preload and stiffening systems available and that's what I'm looking for. Check out ladder bars, traction bars, Housing floaters, wheel bars, or 4-link systems. I've had a number of these over the years and found them to be the single best fix. However I've not found anything specifically for our Challengers yet.

There is a fix for this I have wheeL hop on my 09 R/T 6 spd look up hopnot.net I plan on ordering mine this week watch the videos its scary how our rears move before this kit i hope posting the link was ok ?

Kevin